There was this moment, one of the many, where Ladakh and the roads that mesh their way across the landscape, ever growing like webs networking the impressive Indian Army bases. A moment when the thought rose with a very happy smile….. ‘This is why I love riding motorcycles!
This was quickly followed with; ‘Everyone who loves riding motorcycles needs to experience these roads in these mountains!’
The smooth blacktop would draw you deeper into the curves and I would find myself fighting between slowing down to absorb the incredible scenery, the high peaks sweeping into green valleys. Or just wanting to push the 410cc Himalayan as hard as it whole 27 hp would let me. An exhilaration, a joy, not full of adrenaline, but simply a deep sense of flow that would bring a whoopee to your lips!
As Tony, one of our guests stated. “That’s the first time in my life I have ridden full throttle all the way down a mountain!” A satisfying achievement, but perhaps not as difficult as it may sound.
These bikes, the Royal Enfield Himalayan 411, although universally accepted to be underpowered, actually performed impeccably through out our 12 day 1400km tour.
They never missed a beat, and I never once got the dreaded bikers bum burn.
We discovered their limits on occasion, pushing up the service roads that ran directly up the sweeping black top S bends. Duck paddling just to get over the lip onto tarmac. The high altitude riding certainly stole what few horsepower was left.
But over all the group were very happy with their rides. Personally, I missed the soulful phuta phut sound of the classic 500 and my ears and eyes picked up when I came across one. They were once ubiquitous in these mountains. But have been replaced by the rightly named Himalayan. I do suspect that next year, we will be upgraded to the new and more powerful 450.
Castling these peaks and mountains were wonderous monasteries. Temples to the Gods, but more so places of peace and deep contemplation. The fact that men and woman for over a thousand years had walked these high valleys and sort refuge in caves in the most out of the way places was not lost on me. Palaces of enlightenment! Begun by one seeking the deepest truths and a thousand years later a whole village exist honouring the great seekers path. A path so many more followed.
The Himalayan mountains hum with a high energy. Each monastery, temple, stupa or mani (the prayer walls), become anchor points of the divine. Reminding us constantly that there is a world beyond the material. Spiralling vortexes that invite you to slow down and really listen. To tune in with all your senses and remember that you are part of so much more.
The environment is a journey of extremes, we were mesmerised by the high scree slopes splashed with hues of purple and pinks. Moonland of Lamayuru lives up to its name reminding you that Earth is an also an alien planet!
The verdant green valleys of poplar and walnut trees burst out of the baren rock showing the life-giving gift of water. Only then to find yourself skirting the edge of a valley floor that moves from white dusted salt fields to green mushroomed swamp heads fed by a gushing hot water spring.
One of the most memorable landscapes remains the high valley of Tso Moiri Lake. A wild windswept vista, where the crusted surface gave way as you moved closer to the lake. Dust, salt and sand eddy’s swept high into the refined air. Dancing across the surface of this both bleak and incredibly romantic space. When the engines of our hard-working bikes were switched off. You heard nothing! Except the occasional call of a migrating bird.
A profound stillness exists in these sacred mountains. Perhaps this is what called the early souls seeking enlightenment. Because it is in this stillness you first notice the noise within, then perhaps with a little patience and discipline you may find the underlying stillness that matches the great gift of these living mountains.
In all our first Good Vibrations tour through a part of the vast land that is Ladakh was hugely successful. A wonderful group of guests ranging in age from 29 yrs to 67yrs. We showed ourselves that pillions can ride safely, with a little patience and practice the road riders became expert trial scramblers. We estimated a 35/65 trail / blacktop mix. Keeping in mind that one could switch to the other as quickly as you could change gears! Trail also meaning riverbed at times!
There were 2 distinctly disappointing accommodation options provided for us. My stomach dropped on arrival at the second, as the previous night was already high on the list of the worst places I had stayed.
Sunny and I set to finding some where marginally better. But we were so remote, and the options were as few as the trees that no longer grew at these heights. Though with some bed wrangling and the promise of buckets of hot water, we made it work.
These disappointments were balanced by the extraordinary hospitality of Hotel Namra, which as a property welcomed you like a wealthy Uncle who simply could not do enough and really deserves a longer stay then the precious night we had. To the incredibly basic and remote Druk Resort which welcomed us like a poor but generous Aunt, and we found ourselves taking over the dinning room, meeting new friends with a raucous game of UNO.
A Good Vibrations Tour invites and inner and out adventure, a chance to reflect on what is needing attention or care within your life. Time spent in your helmet, in your own company without an agenda in these high spiritual mountains, resting in ancient living monasteries, sharing moments of tenderness, care and laughter together and being brought to tears by the sheer scale and beauty of this timeless land, takes care of the rest.
If you feel your heart calling and your throttle hand getting restless, don’t hesitate to reach out so that you too can feel what it means to ride your heart out in India!
A huge thank you to our partner Manu and his behind the scenes work with the massive logistics. Our Captain Dorjey, who led us with thoughtfulness and care. Our support driver, Thupstan who although quiet was incredibly skilled and reliable. I would highly recommend their company Indus Trek.
Our wonderful guests, Pam and Didier, veterans of Good Vibrations and who prove drawing a pension is when the adventure truly begins. Damon a GV repeat offender who brought us to tears of laughter and distress. Tony and Laurence, a fantastic father and son team. Tony, you remain one of the best riders I have watched on the road and Laurence your wisdom and empathy for those around you belies your age. A special acknowledgement to Catherine (Cat), a wonderful woman who steps up to the limitations imposed on those of us born pre 1970 (or the decade earlier) and fair bowls them over with a twist of her wrist and determination born from a beautiful belief in herself.
You were all such blessed guests.
But a very special acknowledgement to Sunny (Magic Hands) Sharma. I spent 13 nights bunking with you brother and I love you more than ever. You are a young man with a giant’s heart and a profound intuitive gift of fixing both motorcycles and guests. Good Vibrations is lucky to have you!
See you on the road
Jonathan
